Shingo Sato live at the Colchester Institute-Box intergration.

Yesterday was such an amazing day!

The designer Shingo Sato has been visiting the UK and as well as visiting Central St Martin’s and London College of Fashion during his visit, he kindly popped in to the Colchester Institute!

Shingo Sato is a Japanese designer who is known for his Transformational Reconstruction technique which is a different method to cutting patterns flat from patterns and concentrates creating more in 3D. As he is possibly the only person that uses and teaches this technique; it was a fantastic opportunity!

 

Shingo Sato

 

When he arrived and gave a little speech and presentation about his work and explained what he does, showing samples of his work to the group. It was exiting listening to him and hearing him quizzing students about how to create these designs. We were then lucky enough to take part in a workshop with him where he decided to show how to make Box integration.

Box Integration technique.

 

 This included making a bodice block up to then work upon, creating a box design on the front that touched the apex’s of both front darts. The box is measured and then out of card and stuck onto the bodice with tape. Then drawing the style line across the bodice and box, create the new seams which once sewn will create the new design. After cutting all the pieces out and transferring them onto fabric all that’s left is to sew it all back up.

 

 

 

 

 

Finished bodices from the class.

 

As another class mate Sam Purnell and I had previously done this technique, Shingo gave us our own “1 on 2” lesson and taught us the box integration on the shoulder. This was really exiting although I did feel the pressure! This was a similar technique but moving the box onto the shoulder.

Shingo giving a personal lesson on box integration on the shoulder.

My bodice.

Photo taken by Shingo-concentrating!

All the pattern pieces cut out onto fabric.

I’m not sure if it was because I was feeling under pressure as he was there watching but I found the technique a little difficult. It was all ok and I felt really confident- then I got to the “sewing it all back together” part and miraculously lost two of my four points on my square! Gradually, it was sorted out and I managed to finish it feeling really proud of myself!

My finished bow integration.

From the top-showing the shoulder square.

 

It is made with a soft brown cord and a cotton fabric; which had a facing ironed onto it to help keep the form of the square upon the shoulder. I’m very happy with it as a first attempt and am quite inspired by this.

I’m now considering thinking what else I could use this technique for and to create my own way out designs!

Check out You Tube to find Shingo Sato videos on Transformational Reconstruction.

Pleated fabric-Ciment Pleaters in London.

Last week, I was at a presentation by one of the last pleaters in the UK; F. Ciment Pleating LTD. I have previously been to their presentation last year, which I enjoyed also and was looking forward to it.

Terry was the speaker and introduced the patterns and fabric samples. I knew from the previous year what could be accomplished with pleating- as I agree it’s hard to see past your Nan’s pleated skirt-but there were some really amazing futuristic looking folds. I really enjoyed listening to his presentation and after, had a look at some of the samples he had brought. The pleats are created by hand folded patterns made out of card which the fabric is then placed into and put into a vapour machine. Its impressive to see how intricate the pleats are and that they are all handmade-one sample size piece of cardboard can take up to 80 hours to create.

Handmade cardboard pattern.

 

There was an amazing plastic material which appeared to have fabric inside it?! I asked about this and he showed me there were samples there made from everyday transparent plastic bags and from clear shower curtains, folded into amazing pleats. Then within the fabric was a piece of coloured fabric sealed in it, which when asked can be achieved at the pleaters. With the plastic fabric is a man-made material, it should hopefully keep the pleats in it. Terry said a good first test to see if your fabric would pleat is just to fold it with the iron-if it seems to hold you could look into sending it off to get pleated.

Shower curtain pleated with fabric inside it-How cool is that?!

 

 

If you haven’t heard of Ciment Pleaters; they are a company that has been running since 1925 and are one of the only pleaters left here in the UK due to China and other countries with cheaper labour. Originally they designed fabric for mainstream fashion departments such as M&S but now with business not being so busy they now delve in more of the theatrical designs and couture.

 

Ciment Pleating have also worked very closely with the royal family-and even designed Her Majesties helicopter skydive dress (and the real one!) at the opening of the 2012 London Olympics! They also receive orders from big fashion houses and designers and have designed Lady Gaga’s last world tour outfits, including the Born this way outfit off the video.

Lady Gaga's outfit made from the shower curtain and pleated.

 

Nowadays, they have been working with BBC’s Strictly Come Dancing and even in Downton Abbey! Terry had commented if everyone had watched the final episode last night-as there was a garment within it-so I’m going to have to watch it back!

I know they are trying to sell the business but I sincerely hope they don’t close it, as it seems such a shame to close something that can earn and has been such an institution in this country. So next time you want to be inspired ,come and have a look at Ciment Pleating LTD. Their based in London-so support our countries working trade!

F.Ciment (Pleating) Ltd.
18a station close
Potters Bar
Herts EN6 1TL

Bride of Frankenstein handmade Halloween Costume.

This week was my favourite holiday-Halloween!! And I went to a family party with my fiancé, brother and sister in law- and it was great!

I was trying to come up with something different as a costume as I felt I had worn all other options out so I planned to go as The Bride of Frankenstein. I looked at You Tube to get some inspiration and watched parts of the film. As it is an old school film-made in 1936, I really liked the glamorous feel and even though it was meant to be scary it was quite elegant as well. Also as I don’t do scary very well-I thought it fitted quite well!

The Bride of Frankenstein in 1936 film.

Beautiful draped dress.

 

So after researching the film and looking into what she wore, I bought some sheeting from a fabric shop-which worked out cheaper as it was double width! And then using my Shingo Sato inspired technique-I made a base dress and cut triangular goudes into it; giving it flair around the front and sides. Then cutting the pieces out again on the bias created a fully flared dress which hung well and had good drapery.

The end result was a fitted squared top that then flared out from the bust at the front and back and also from the hip at the sides. A quick side zip was installed to make sure the top would fit and facing was ironed onto the shoulders to help keep the structure. I bought 3 metres of sheeting and used most of it as with the bias cutting took a lot of fabric up.

The top of the dress.

The full legth of dress.

 

I was happy with the result and that I had created something that I had envisaged originally. I know it may not look like much-a bit like a giant white tent-but I was pleased with the way it hung and I think it portrayed that there was skill behind the pattern of the dress.